A great alternative to the very expensive ANR headsets out there. A little work involved, but satisfying results. I would get the optional power cord if doing it again, as the way they have you combine the two cords is kind of cheesy. Be sure to read a step or two ahead of your operation, because at one point you start soldering, only to find out that there was another step you should have taken before having to undo everything you just did. This was my second set, so I believe in this product.

Instructions are adequate but must be carefully reviewed and followed. You have to decide which paragraphs to skip since instructions cover an optional power harness. I skipped too much at first. It would be very helpful if the power cable was stripped to the proper 3 inch length in the kit as this is a slightly difficult operation. The colored wiring diagrams were very helpful. Make the 3 wires for the electronic module plenty long and trim them to a suitable length just before soldering to the modules. I installed this kit on a 40 year old David Clark H10-30. Performance is good, making a significant improvement in low frequency noise from a 200 HP IO-360 with 2 blade propeller. A good seal to your ears is important and was possible wearing eye glasses using gel ear seals. I compared side by side to a Bose A20. The Bose A20 is significantly better but significantly more expensive. Overall, the upgrade is a very good value if you own a passive headset.

Thanks to SCOTT J VALENTI I have ordered the AMP cable. I would have been pissed without it. Note to Spruce: you guys rock but you need to keep up with stuff like that. Quite a few times I ordered stuff that requires other items and its either not mentioned at all or its mentioned like: see below for XXX part and there is nothing below...

I just received my kit today. The parts are all there and packaged in a professional manner. The instruction booklet seems real good. However, I already have an issue. The instruction booklet mentions an optional AMP cable. Hmm, why didn't I get this? Oh, it's because I didn't know it existed! Why would someone spend $159 on the ANR kit, but not an extra $33 on the AMP cable? So, I ordered the AMP cable just a few minutes ago. Save yourself some hassle and order them at the same time, OK? Or maybe you're smarter than I am, and already noticed the AMP cable is listed on the ANR retrofit page, and you've already added it to your shopping cart. Good for you. There is a nice list of tools required, in the instruction booklet. They are: 1. Fine tip soldering tool ( 20w) 2. Small wire cutters 3. Small screwdriver set 4. Sponge to clean solder tip 5. Butane lighter to heat shrink wrap 6. Continuity tester (optional) Also, if you don't get the AMP cable, you'll need a drill with 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 bits. (Another reason to get the AMP cable!) Just thought I'd list the tools here so you can make sure you have them, ahead of time. Thanks.

Purchased a kit last week for a 25 year old David Clark H10-30 headset. For the first time, I spent about an hour and a half on this installation. The results were remarkable. I am very pleased that I purchased this retrofit kit, the David Clark gel ear seals, new wide headband and a M7/DC retrofit microphone kit. Total cost of new parts is about half the cost of a new David Clark ANR headset.

I installed this kit in my SPH-5 helo hemet. It was a bit tedious, but that was to be expected. This made a huge difference in the amount of noise in my PA-12 160. I used to have to use earplugs on anything other than local flights. As far as the installation goes, you need to be deft with your soldering or it isnt going to go well. It isnt electronics, but you need to be careful and follow the instructions, which I found well-written. I had one problem (my fault) because of reading the instructions wrong, so I called the manufacturer. The owner answered the phone. There you go.

Works very well

I purchased this in order to upgrade a David Clark H10-40 headset to ANR. I fly a 7KCAb Citabria, usually with the window open and it is pretty noisy. I recommend getting the optional AMP cable as it simplifies the installation and is much cleaner over all. The directions are about 90% complete, but the customer service was superb with a real person answering the phone and connecting me to a technician who was very helpful. For the H10-40 installation, what was missing in the instructions and wiring diagrams are: - what to do with the clear coated large diameter RF drain from the mic boom (connect it to the black ground wires from the power cord, crossover cord and the black wire to the left ANR unit) and - how to connect the white and yellow microphone wires (white to white and color to color - yellow to red in this case). The technician was also helpful with the conversion to the M7 microphone. The M4 uses a brown colored cap connected to the positive and negative mic wires to boost the signal. The M7 mic doesnt need it so you just remove it. Otherwise if you retain the M4, connect the wires as described above, but with the cap connected. Once assembled, I took it up and found that the ANR is very effective with a truly impressive reduction in low frequency noise. However, theres no free lunch. I compared my converted H-10-40 to a standard H10-40 and noted that the converted unit gives up some passive attenuation. Its not surprising, as the H10-40 uses a lot of foam in the ear cups, while the conversion uses a single piece about 3/16 thick that is worked around under the wires. The instructions indicate the ANR sets need space in the cup to work properly, so more foam isnt really and option. The passive noise reduction is still ok, but isnt as effective as an unmodified David Clark. Consequently, I recommend carrying a spare battery. Still, Im impressed enough that I plan to convert my other three H-10-40s.

Jai installé ce kit dans mes vieux écouteurs David Clark H10-80. Les instructions sont adéquates mais doivent être soigneusement examinées, relues, comprises et suivies. Cétait un peu fastidieux, mais il fallait sy attendre. Les schémas de câblage colorés ont été très utiles. Je nâ??avais jamais fait de soudure électronique avant mais avec un peu de pratique et de patience on y arrive très bien. Jâ??ai acheté le câble AMP ce qui donne une conversion finale de très belle finition et facilite aussi le travail. Les performances sont bonnes. Le bruit des basses fréquences est considérablement réduit, cependant, il y a un compromis à faire en ce qui concerne la réduction de bruit en mode passif. Ce nest pas surprenant, car le H10-80 utilise beaucoup de mousse dans les oreillettes, tandis que la conversion utilise une seule pièce denviron 3/16 dépaisseur qui est insérée sous les fils. Les instructions indiquent que les modules ANR ont besoin despace dans la coquille pour fonctionner correctement, donc dâ??ajouter plus de mousse nest pas vraiment une option. La réduction passive du bruit est toujours correcte, mais nest pas aussi efficace quun David Clark non modifié. Par conséquent, je recommande fortement demporter une batterie de rechange. Dans lensemble, la mise à niveau est un très bon rapport qualité-prix si vous possédez un casque passif.